How to Repair Scratches and Snags in Plasterboard
Scratches and snags in new plasterboard are an inevitable part of any first fix. Cables get dragged across the surface, tools catch the face paper, fixings get started in the wrong place. None of it is serious, but if it is not repaired properly before decoration, every mark will show through paint. Here's how to fill and finish scratches and snags so the board looks clean and undamaged.
What counts as a scratch or snag?
Scratches, snags and teeth are surface marks that have scored or cut into the face paper of the plasterboard. They are usually shallow, surface-level damage up to 1cm that does not affect the structural integrity of the board - but will be visible under paint if they are not addressed.
Deeper damage - holes, punctures, or areas where the plasterboard core is exposed over a larger section - should be treated as a hole repair rather than a scratch. Read our step-by-step guide on how to repair holes in plasterboard
Step 1: Prep – Clean Up the Damage
For scratches, there is very little prep needed. Run your filling knife lightly across the scratch to make sure there are no raised edges of paper. If the paper has lifted slightly along the scratch line, press it flat or trim it back with a utility knife so it sits flush.
For snags where the face paper has been torn, carefully trim away any loose or lifted paper with a utility knife. Cut back to where the paper is still firmly bonded to the board. Do not pull the paper - tearing it further will create a larger area to repair. If the exposed core of the board feels soft or dusty, brush off any loose material.
Because this is new plasterboard, there is no need to apply a wall hardener. The board surface is sound and the filler will adhere directly to it.
Step 2: Fill - Fill the Repair
Using a filling knife, apply your chosen filler into the scratch or over the snagged area. For scratches, a single thin pass is usually enough - press the filler firmly into the scratch line and scrape the excess off flush with the surrounding board. The repair should be level with the face paper, not sitting proud of it.
For snags where the face paper has been removed, build the filler up to the level of the surrounding paper surface. The filler is replacing the missing paper layer as well as filling the void, so it needs to be flush with the board face - not just the exposed core.
On larger snags, you may need two passes. Apply the first coat, allow it to set, then apply a second thinner coat to bring the surface perfectly level. On smaller scratches, one pass is all you need.
Work along the length of the scratch in one direction for a clean, consistent fill. Going back and forth drags filler out of the repair and leaves an uneven surface.
Step 3: Finish - Skim to a Smooth Surface
Once the filler has set, lightly sand with fine-grit sandpaper (P180). Use gentle strokes - the surrounding face paper is easy to scuff if you sand too aggressively.
For larger snagged areas, feather the finish coat out further to create a gradual transition. The wider the blend, the less visible the repair.
Allow to dry completely, then lightly sand.